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Thinking of getting a 10 or 20-gallon tank for your new companion? Reconsider. These guys get up to 6 feet long and are an arboreal (tree dwelling) species. Height is more important than the size of the cage's footprint. If you start with a small habitat, your iguana will quickly outgrow it and you will need to spend more money on larger enclosures. It is best to have a large enough cage to accommodate a grown iguana right off the bat. Plexiglass is ideal due to its humidity-trapping abilities. You can also choose mesh, but keep in mind that iguanas are tropical and therefore require high humidity (70%). This can be accomplished by placing a humidifier in the room that can maintain the necessary levels needed by your iguana. Without proper humidity, your iguana's biological systems will not function properly, and this can cause serious health issues as the animal grows, eventually leading to a shorter lifespan.
Another critical factor for your iguana is access to lighting and heat. We highly recommend MegaRay all-in-one UVA/UVB bulbs and Arcadia T5 bulbs. The combination of UVA and UVB replicates the sun's effects on the iguana's health. Keep heat lamps inaccessible to iguanas because the animal will slowly burn itself by sitting on a light. NO HOT ROCKS! Your animal is guaranteed to get severely burned from hot rocks or similar. Heating and lighting should never be underneath the animal.
Without the proper diet, lighting, and heat, young iguanas develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). This leads to soft bones that cannot develop properly, causing jaw deformities, spinal bends, swollen limbs, tremors, and a host of other health problems. Don't skimp on lighting!
Here is a link further exploring MBD: Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) & Disorders in Reptiles | PetMD
Make sure your iguana has a place to go to cool down, too. Iguanas cannot sweat, so they release body heat by gaping (open mouth resembling panting). Since iguanas are ectotherms (cold-blooded), they rely on their environment to regulate their temperature. Without a cool portion of the cage, your animal can easily overheat and perish.
You will need to provide climbing surfaces and places to hide so your pet feels secure. If you choose to use branches from trees, be cautious, as outdoor foliage tends to introduce mites or other pests into the environment. Pool noodles are an affordable climbing alternative for younger iguanas.
As for substrate, there are several options. The ideal is a bio-active "forest floor". Click here to explore: The Bio Dude Blog: Reptiles, Terrariums, & More | The Bio Dude. Bioactive cage bottoms are great because they help keep humidity in the environment and the natural bioactive cycle alleviates the constant need for poop cleanup.
You can also opt for puppy pads or paper towels on the cage floor for younger iguanas. Steer clear of sand because iguanas have no problem eating that banana chunk that landed in the sand. If husbandry is on point, occasional ingestion of soil or sand shouldn't cause a problem, but best to use substrate that most closely matches their natural environment.
Here is a guide for placing plants in the habitat: Safe Plants For Iguana Cages – ulleninteriorassociates